Day 1
A tense trip through hard-to-see reef sections bordering both sides of the passage leading out of the Philippine archipelago started off the morning, compounded by the 30-35kt winds we were experiencing on the beam. This area is world famous for surf breaks and people fly in from around the world to surf breaks at 'cloud 9' and 'Tuason Point'. This was the opposing wind season, so those places were free of international tourists but we could certainly spot some barrel waves adjacent reef sections and steered well clear.
Just 30nm east of the Philippine islands we crossed the Philippine trench where the water depth plummets to some 5000m generating sloppy waves and an impenetrable deep blue ocean. The wind that we had so diligently studied and expected to be 30kts disappeared while we were in the wind shadow created by the Mindanao land mass and we motored until nightfall as the searing heat of such still air got us sweating and diving for shady cover. Just as we were hoeing into dinner, it whipped back up with a freshening 15kt sou-easterly off the starboard bow. After settling the sails, we relaxed into our 3 hour rotating shift pattern for the night.
Day 2
Early in the morning the wind filled in to 25kts at a touch over 'relaxing' wind speed, bringing with it 3m beam swell and 1m chop on top to make for a seriously uncomfortable time. Heeled over to port, taking waves over the starboard side that washed half the mainsail and everything below it and the port toe rails going under with every rolling wave. It certainly was a wild ride. We reefed the main to the third point as the wind increased to 30kts, gusting up to 35kts. Apart from my overwhelming feelings of seasickness, the one dominating memory was of the immense sound of the wind. Howling and swirling around it certainly evoked feelings of fear. With no land for hundreds of miles, it was a reminder of the power of nature and the exposed isolation of being at sea. This was the tail end of the big wind system that we had been watching.
Day 3
The wind and seas had stayed in, though they abated at lunch time long enough to have some reheated lentil curry. A big step up from 2-minute noodles of the previous day. The third reef and the staysail remained the sail configuration for the day as the wind picked up again. Another notable feature of the trip so far was that we saw nothing, no birds, no boats, no fishing apparatus (fishing attraction devices), no moon (as it was a waxing moon and covered by clouds), just nothing. It was just us and the sea.
Day 4
The world suddenly looked brighter. The wind was steadily dropping, finally below 25kts and the seas reduced to under 2m. We rubbed our salt encrusted eyes as the sun shone brilliantly and it was one of those perfect days at sea. The only problem arose when we needed to use the engine to charge the batteries. We discovered a fault in the solar panels on day 1, which left us with a significantly reduced ability to generate electricity, with only the wind generator left. So we started the engine but it was overheating. So Hugh donned his problem solving hat (the head torch) and submerged himself in the engine bay. The boat was still heeling heavily to port and we were still receiving knocking waves, so to be inside lying across the main engine in the cramped engine bay was no mean feat. Hours ticked by, Hugh removed the cooling water impeller and discovered it had shed 4 blades, now the hunt began for the rubber fragments that were lost anywhere in one of the myriad of segments of the engine connected with hoses. The heat exchanger was opened, the now redundant engine driven fridge cooling was removed, the impeller replaced and finally at 2am after working all day to solve the problem, the lube oil cooler was the final section of the cooling system where the rubber had lodged itself, blocking the sea water network. Almost 24 hours on from the problem arising, a hot, tired and very relieved Hugh caught 3 hours sleep and I was finally able to go to bed at 5:30am.
Day 5
Land-ho! The hazy green slowly rising land form was visible on the horizon, spotted 15nm off the bow and in perfect conditions identical to the day before. We hung out all our canvas and sailed EJII as fast as she would go in 10kts towards the reef-ringed western entry channel. It was going to be a close run thing, to make it to customs check-in before 4pm (as it was a Friday and the officials charge a hefty additional fee for after hours and weekend check-ins which is required before anchoring or mooring). With our happily cooling engine. we used horse power to navigate the tricky reef sections and the additional 15nm upwind trip to the CIQ dock. The reefs we were navigating through shone an array of aqua colours from miles away, the water was a brilliant blue and clarity was spectacular. It was the sight we had been longing to see and it was very exciting to be arriving in a new country, and one that was already visually living up to expectations.
We made it to the CIQ dock just in time. Though it was low tide and we had to tie up parallel to a high concrete wall that was covered in spiky oysters...it was tricky and not something that we wanted to do with our passage-lag that we were suffering. But we managed to get in, flopping all our fenders over the side and doing some strategic fending off the concrete wall while the officials watched from above. All at once, 5 officials jumped aboard and made themselves comfortable in our cockpit while they all shot questions at us simultaneously, all keen to knock off on time and go to the pub. We were furiously filling out forms, providing copies of documents and answering questions. Customs, Immigration, Port Master, Quarantine, Public Health were all intently watching our form filling skills and interrogating our check out port, how many days at sea, where we had been, making sure all the answers were consistent it was a very hectic experience! But we got through it reluctantly giving up our last avocados, garlic and eggs to the Quarantine guy.
We leisurely motored around to Malakal Harbour and Sams Dive Tours, the home of the Royal Belau Yacht Club, gratefully taking their welcome mooring before celebrating our arrival at port with a glass of red wine on the deck as the sun set behind the rising tree covered limestone cliffs that created an extremely sheltered cove. A sigh of relief and a feeling of sheer pleasure came over us. It had been a stressful time with the engine problem, as we may have required a tow through the reef entry otherwise. But all was well, we had made the 550nm eastward journey and were making some gains on our big trip home. That Hugh awoke the next morning to find that the toilet was blocked took some of the sheen off our arrival, no one wants to get up close and personal with their own waste. But boat dramas aside, the friendly locals and buzzing expat community (not to mention the western dining delights) were bound to make for a fabulous first Pacific Ocean stop.
9/8/2014
Day 4
The world suddenly looked brighter. The wind was steadily dropping, finally below 25kts and the seas reduced to under 2m. We rubbed our salt encrusted eyes as the sun shone brilliantly and it was one of those perfect days at sea. The only problem arose when we needed to use the engine to charge the batteries. We discovered a fault in the solar panels on day 1, which left us with a significantly reduced ability to generate electricity, with only the wind generator left. So we started the engine but it was overheating. So Hugh donned his problem solving hat (the head torch) and submerged himself in the engine bay. The boat was still heeling heavily to port and we were still receiving knocking waves, so to be inside lying across the main engine in the cramped engine bay was no mean feat. Hours ticked by, Hugh removed the cooling water impeller and discovered it had shed 4 blades, now the hunt began for the rubber fragments that were lost anywhere in one of the myriad of segments of the engine connected with hoses. The heat exchanger was opened, the now redundant engine driven fridge cooling was removed, the impeller replaced and finally at 2am after working all day to solve the problem, the lube oil cooler was the final section of the cooling system where the rubber had lodged itself, blocking the sea water network. Almost 24 hours on from the problem arising, a hot, tired and very relieved Hugh caught 3 hours sleep and I was finally able to go to bed at 5:30am.
Day 5
Land-ho! The hazy green slowly rising land form was visible on the horizon, spotted 15nm off the bow and in perfect conditions identical to the day before. We hung out all our canvas and sailed EJII as fast as she would go in 10kts towards the reef-ringed western entry channel. It was going to be a close run thing, to make it to customs check-in before 4pm (as it was a Friday and the officials charge a hefty additional fee for after hours and weekend check-ins which is required before anchoring or mooring). With our happily cooling engine. we used horse power to navigate the tricky reef sections and the additional 15nm upwind trip to the CIQ dock. The reefs we were navigating through shone an array of aqua colours from miles away, the water was a brilliant blue and clarity was spectacular. It was the sight we had been longing to see and it was very exciting to be arriving in a new country, and one that was already visually living up to expectations.
 |
| The brilliant reefs that are Palau |
We made it to the CIQ dock just in time. Though it was low tide and we had to tie up parallel to a high concrete wall that was covered in spiky oysters...it was tricky and not something that we wanted to do with our passage-lag that we were suffering. But we managed to get in, flopping all our fenders over the side and doing some strategic fending off the concrete wall while the officials watched from above. All at once, 5 officials jumped aboard and made themselves comfortable in our cockpit while they all shot questions at us simultaneously, all keen to knock off on time and go to the pub. We were furiously filling out forms, providing copies of documents and answering questions. Customs, Immigration, Port Master, Quarantine, Public Health were all intently watching our form filling skills and interrogating our check out port, how many days at sea, where we had been, making sure all the answers were consistent it was a very hectic experience! But we got through it reluctantly giving up our last avocados, garlic and eggs to the Quarantine guy.
We leisurely motored around to Malakal Harbour and Sams Dive Tours, the home of the Royal Belau Yacht Club, gratefully taking their welcome mooring before celebrating our arrival at port with a glass of red wine on the deck as the sun set behind the rising tree covered limestone cliffs that created an extremely sheltered cove. A sigh of relief and a feeling of sheer pleasure came over us. It had been a stressful time with the engine problem, as we may have required a tow through the reef entry otherwise. But all was well, we had made the 550nm eastward journey and were making some gains on our big trip home. That Hugh awoke the next morning to find that the toilet was blocked took some of the sheen off our arrival, no one wants to get up close and personal with their own waste. But boat dramas aside, the friendly locals and buzzing expat community (not to mention the western dining delights) were bound to make for a fabulous first Pacific Ocean stop.
 |
| Malakal Harbour encircled by limestone cliffs |
9/8/2014
very impressive diesel repair skills!!!
ReplyDeleteThankfully Hugh is blessed with iron guts and does not get seasick under the most inviting circumstances. He is also a excellent diesel mechanic 400nm from anywhere!
ReplyDelete